勃艮第：对不起！我不爱你 | 朱利安
点击上方公众号名称“Decanter醇鉴”，
关注英国葡萄酒杂志Decanter官方微信号
朱利安/Julien Boulard
国内葡萄酒圈有个现象，我一直觉得挺好玩的：有些产区，大家好像觉得人人都“必须喜欢”。所以上个礼拜，我着实吃惊地听到两个中国朋友发出了惊世骇俗的反抗言论，矛头竟直指这些葡萄酒中神圣不可侵犯的产区……
Scroll down to read the original article in English
往下拉阅读英文原版
漫画：“宗师，我不想知道人生的意义，只想知道矿物味是个啥玩意儿。”作者：Robert Thompson，原载Decanter杂志
国内葡萄酒圈有个现象，我一直觉得挺好玩的：有些产区，大家好像觉得人人都“必须喜欢”——勃艮第和巴罗洛就在此列。于是乎，那些敢于表示对这些产区“不感冒”的，常常一言不合，就被葡萄酒“真爱粉”们开除粉籍。
万幸，现在不喜欢波尔多已经不算大逆不道了（恰恰相反，讨厌波尔多倒成了圈内时尚，着实可悲）。不过，你在公共场合说一句“我不喜欢勃艮第”试试看？周围的人会分分钟露出看到智障的惊惧表情，好像你说了什么人神共愤的事情。
所以上个礼拜，我着实吃惊地听到两个中国朋友发出了惊世骇俗的反抗言论，矛头竟直指这些葡萄酒中神圣不可侵犯的产区。
他们中的一个，在朋友圈发了一篇长达600字的“自白”，另一个隔了两天，也在一个月黑风高的周六承认了自己“罪行”，还要偷偷摸摸，生怕被潜伏圈中的叛徒“告密”，落下千夫所指的把柄。
这第一位朋友，为了保护她的身份，保她不受“真爱教”之迫害，我们叫她“阿芹”吧。且说这阿芹，撰了一封致勃艮第的简信，坦承自己对信仰的疑惑，乃至将这大逆不道的文字发布在了大名鼎鼎的社交平台之上。
她在信中，不乏对勃艮第的崇敬之情，称为能一睽珍酿之美，日日勤于品鉴，勉于背书，不错过任何能一品芳泽的机会，彼时那些俗不可耐的个人爱好，也为了修行弃若敝屣。
但是，这漫长虔诚的朝圣之路，并未将她领入大彻大悟的殿堂，让她不禁心生疑窦，不知何年何月才能领悟这琼浆不可言说的美妙。
她说身边的信者同伴们，皆大肆赞颂勃艮第细腻内敛的风格，精致优雅的滋味，令她满心羞愧——因为她发现，自己真心所好的，竟是那些不值一提的“下里巴人”。
漫画：“良辰美景在眼前，你能不能别写品酒词了……”作者：Robert Thompson，原载Decanter杂志
而另一位朋友Jason，本来将心中的疑惑隐藏得很深，在朋友圈同僚间也从未走漏半点风声，可千算万算，还是不慎向我吐露了自己的“罪行”：他说，不想再帮那群勃艮第“黑手党”付酒账了！
那是一个伸手不见五指的雨夜，Jason藏在避人耳目的角落，半压软呢帽，遮住半张脸，朝凭空的吐酒桶里狠狠啐几口，吐出实话：“那帮人喝的什么玩艺，死贵死贵的，摆明瞧不起咱这些穷鬼，老子凭啥还要笑脸相迎？”
呜呼哀哉，我简直可以尝到这人口中单宁的苦涩；我心中暗忖，只怕还有不少Jason般的“大逆不道”之徒，心中忿忿，却敢怒而不敢言。
紧接着，Jason又谈起那些无端受人所鄙的波尔多信众，说他们的酒便宜得多，而且不得不承认，对某些爱酒者，波尔多也颇有几分魅力。
我这两个朋友，并非寻求宽恕的迷途羔羊，不如说是夹在两难之中，饱受挫折的爱好者们的写照：在得当的花销和装土豪之间的两难，还有随主流以及追求个性之间的两难。而那些喜欢半甜葡萄酒的可怜人，境遇还不及他们，已经羞得恨不得要找个地缝钻下去！
不幸的是，葡萄酒就是具有这种不可思议的力量，专门吸引那些喜欢摆弄学问的“假专家”们，无时无刻不让你觉得自己是群体里的丑小鸭，通过嘲讽你的品味抬高自己，让你更难表达自己的看法和喜好。
但是啊朋友，别放弃，别随波逐流！就算你不喜欢勃艮第，对巴罗洛不感冒，也没什么可内疚的。相信你的味蕾，敢于说出“不爱”二字，你的葡萄酒世界才会更宽广！
（编译：Sylvia Wu/吴嘉溦）
在本页底部留言，说说你的独家观点
Read the original English version
Burgundy, I love you… Me neither!
I am fascinated by how some wine regions such as Burgundy and Barolo have become a “must-like” in China and how people not particularly fond of these regions are sometimes perceived as outcasts by “real” wine lovers! Indeed, disliking Bordeaux isn’t taboo anymore (quite the contrary sadly), but try to say “I don’t like Burgundy” in public, and you’ll see horrified looks and stunned faces around you, as if you had gone mad, blaspheming against the holy spirit or heading for serious troubles !
I was therefore surprised last week, when only a few days apart, two Chinese friends dared to rebel against convention, one by audaciously posting a 600 words-long confession on her WeChat account, and the second one by covertly admitting to a crime on a Saturday night, only doing so after making sure not being spied on by a mole from the morality police. You never know!
My first friend, we’ll call her “A Qin” to respect her anonymity and to avoid reprisals from a fanatical Cistercian monk, expressed doubts about her own faith through a letter written to Burgundy itself, and published on the revered social media.
In her letter, A Qin acknowledges the almighty's greatness and expresses her goodwill and hard work to be worthy of its grace. She emphasises her devotion to studying the re(li)gion, never missing the opportunity to drink its sacred blood, sacrificing a few despicable profane desires along the way.
But despite her longstanding and pious efforts, A Qin hasn't felt the much-awaited benediction yet and wonders how much longer it will take to understand the subtle shades of the nectar. She sees many fellow believers communally praising its refine character, calling it "delicacy", but she shamefully realises that her true penchant is for more trivial potations.
Now under witness protection and living with a new identity, Jason managed to keep low profile for a long time, taking care not to arouse suspicion from his peers. Nonetheless, after a few slips of tongue, it became clear that he wasn’t safe anymore… His crime? Not willing to pay the Burgundy mob!
On that rainy night, away from inquisitive eyes, the man partially masked by his fedora hat confessed: “Look at the price of they booze! It’s obvious they don’t welcome poor folks like may! I’ll be damned if I welcome an unwelcoming fellow!” He dotted his sentence by scornfully spitting in an imaginary spittoon.
I could almost taste the tannic bitterness of the man, secretly thinking that many other outlaws felt fooled like him. He then went on stressing out the better deals the overly-vilified Bordeaux gang offered him, even if he grudgingly recognised that the stuff they were dealing might appeal to another kind of clientele.
These aren’t two lost souls seeking for remission, but shunted spirits torn apart between propriety and self-affirmation, between merging into the crowd and just going with one’s gut (think about all those hiding in caves because of their shameful attraction for semi-sweet wines!).
Unfortunately, wine has this inexplicable power to attract pedantic Mr. and Mrs. Know-it-all, who will never lose an opportunity to make you feel like the ugly duckling of a group, mocking your taste, praising theirs, and thus making self-emancipation even more difficult. But don't give up! Trust your buds and stop feeling guilty! You’ll appreciate wine just even more!
在本页底部留言，说说你的独家观点
↙点击左下角“阅读原文”阅读更多朱利安的文章
Click 'Read More' on the bottom left
to read more articles written by Julien Boulard
Decanter作家：朱利安（Julien Boulard）
出生于法国的朱利安从2003年起一直定居中国。他是WSET四级文凭持有者，也正在攻读葡萄酒大师课程（Master of Wine）。他流利的中文（口语及书写）、丰富的葡萄酒知识及经验以及在中国社交媒体上的活跃度使他成为了中国颇受欢迎的葡萄酒讲师。
英国权威葡萄酒杂志Decanter开通官方微信啦！
长按以下图片↓↓↓，点击“识别二维码”关注我们吧。
（或搜索微信公众号ID：Decanter醇鉴）